Archive for the ‘Sauces & Dressings’ Category

Cold and rainy night… We’re having a very traditional winter meal. A homemade seitan roast stuffed with a carrot, leeks & mushroom brunoise, with oven roasted maple glazed root vegetables, potato purée and a simple pan juice & amontillado sauce. We’ll pair this with a simple musclum salad with dill & lemon zest and a lemon & olive oil dressing. And we’ll end things with an apple crisp, my favourite ordinary desert!


roast meal



For the seitan

  • 225 ml (1 cup) wheat gluten flour
  • 175 ml (3/4 cup) white mushrooms
  • 60 ml (1/4 cup) porcini mushrooms
  • 1 small onion
  • 30 ml (2 tbsp) olive oil
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) powdered onion soup
  • 2.5 ml (1/2 tsp) rosemary
  • 2.5 ml (1/2 tsp) thyme
  • 2.5 ml (1/2 tsp) smoked spanish paprika
  • 1.25 ml (1/4 tsp) nutmeg
  • 1 glove garlic
  • 125 ml (1/2 cup) strong vegetable stock
  • 2 litres (8 cups) strong vegetable stock for poaching

For the stuffing

  • 1 carrot
  • 125 ml (1/2 cup) white mushrooms
  • 1 leeks (white part only)
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) vegetable oil

For the veges

  • 4 carrots, quartered lengthwise
  • 1 small rutabaga, cut in 1 cm wide sticks
  • 4 parsnips, quartered lengthwise
  • 2 small onions, quartered
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 30 ml (2 tbsp) maple syrup
  • 30 ml (2 tbsp) olive oil
  • salt to taste

For the purée

  • 1 kg (2¼lbs) potatoes
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) salt
  • 200 g (7 oz) cold vegan butter, in small chunks
  • warm vegan milk, to taste

For the sauce

  • 125 ml (1/2 cup) amontillado wine
  • 30 ml (2 tbsp) vegan butter


roast stuffed & tied

roast stuffed & tied

roast & veges ready to go in the oven.

roast & veges ready to bake
roast & veges ready to bake

To make

First make the seitan. In a large food processor finely chop the onions, garlic and mushrooms. Add flour and seasoning and pulse a few times. Add just enough stock to get a very firm dough. Process until smooth. Reserve.

Make the stuffing. Brunoise all the veges. Heat the oil in a sautéing pan, sauter the carrots for a minute, add leeks and mushrooms and sauter a minute more until vegetables are tender and golden. Reserve.

Roll out the seitan into a large rectangle about 1 cm thick. Stuff, roll and seal the edges with water. Tie the roast well.

Poach the roast in a large pot of strong vege stock for 10 mins. Remove and drain.

Preheat oven to 190°C (375°F)

Place roast in large roasting pan, brush with oil and seasoning.

In a bowl toss the vegetables with oil, maple syrup, crushed garlic and salt & pepper to taste. Arrange the veges around the roast. Bake for 45 mins or until veges are done and roast is golden brown.

While roast is baking, make the purée. Peel, slice and rinse the potatoes. In a large pot of water simmer potatoes until soft. Drain and rice the potatoes over a bowl containing the cold butter. When you are ready to serve reheat the purée very gently while gradually whisking in a little warm milk.

When the roast is ready, remove it and the veges to a serving plate. Put the roasting pan on the stove, medium high heat, and deglaze with amontillado, scraping the pan with a spoon to dissolve all the fond. Reduce by 1/3. Remove from heat. Adjust salt and pepper. Add butter a little at the time, stirring well after each addition to incorporate it. Keep warm.

Plate and serve.

Serves 4

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With this tropical weather I’m craving tropical food. This simple and refreshing combo is prepared quickly and requires no fussing at all. And as the satés are BBQ, no need to fire up the oven and warm up the house further.



Green papaya salad and smoked tofu satés with peanut dipping sauce

Tofu satés


  • 2 packs of smoked tofu, cut lengthwise in 1 cm thick slices

For the marinade

  • 60 ml (1/4 cup) kecap manis
  • 30 ml (2 tbs)  soy sauce
  • 30 ml (2 tbs) fresh lemon juice
  • 30 ml (2 tbs) vegetable oil
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 stalk fresh lemongrass, trimmed, smashed and cut into pieces
  • 15 ml (1 tbs) fresh ginger, grated
  • 5 ml (1 tsp)  ground turmeric
  • 5 ml (1 tsp)  ground cumin
  • 5 ml (1 tsp)  ground coriander
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the sauce

  • 125 ml (1/2 cup) crunchy natural peanut butter
  • 125 ml (1/2 cup) unsweetened coconut milk
  • 60 ml (2 tbs) light brown sugar
  • Pinch cayenne

12 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for at least 20 minutes

  1. Combine all the marinade ingredients.
  2. Arrange the tofu slices in a single layer in a large and shallow dish, cover with the marinade and refrigerate at least 30 minutes and up to 24 hres.
  3. Remove the tofu from the marinade and thread the slices on bamboo skewers.
  4. Grill over hot coals until golden brown, turning once.
  5. While the satés cooks, put the sauce ingredients in a small sauce pan and warm gently stirring to combine well.
  6. Let the satés cool slightly and serve them with the peanut sauce for dipping.

Green papaya salad


  • 1 liter (4 cups) green papaya, shredded
  • 10 cherry tomatoes, halved
  • 15 green beans, cut in 2 cm pieces
  • 2 Thai chili peppers, finely chopped
  • 75 ml (1/3 cup) vegan nước chấm
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • juice of 1 ½ lime
  • 45 ml (3 tbs) palm sugar
  • 60 ml (4 tbs) toasted peanuts, chopped
  1. Peel and shred the papaya using a grater with medium to large sized holes. Reserve.
  2. In a large bowl, combine chili peppers, vegan nước chấm, garlic, lime juice and palm sugar and mix until sugar is dissolved.
  3. Add the cherry tomatoes, green beans and green papaya and mix well.
  4. Top with peanuts and serve.
Serves 6

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Today looks and feels like the first sunday of fall. I warded off the end-of-summer-blues with 2 fail proof anti-depressants: pasta and amontillado. I used orecchiette but linguine or spaghetti would work well too. And try to get your hands on Pioppino mushrooms, their nutty flavour works real well here, otherwise porcini or other hearty wild mushrooms will do.


  • 450 gr (1 lb) pasta
  • 225 gr (8 oz) Pioppino mushrooms, cleaned and chopped
  • 225 gr (8 oz) brown cultivated mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
  • 2 shallots, minced
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) canola oil
  • 1o ml (2 tsp) fresh thyme, minced
  • 5 ml (1 tsp) pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika)
  • 150 ml (5 oz) Amontillado Jerez

for the cream

  • 170 gr (6 oz) soft silken tofu
  • 30 ml (2 tbsp) olive oil
  • 1,25 ml (1/4 tsp) nutmeg
  • 5 ml (1 tsp) agave nectar
  • fresh black pepper to taste
  • salt to taste

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and cook pasta until al dente.

During this time, make the soy cream by combining all the cream ingredients in a blender and processing until smooth and thick as crème fraîche. Reserve.

Heat the canola oil in a sauteing pan over medium-high heat, add mushrooms and sauté until golden brown. Add shallots, garlic and thyme, sauté for a couple of minutes. Deglaze the pan with Amontillado and continue cooking until most of the liquid is evaporated.

Turn the heat down to minimum, add the soy cream, stir and simmer 2-3 minutes. Add the cooked and drained pasta, toss well to coat with the sauce. Serve garnished with minced fresh parsley and pine nuts parmesan.

Serves 4

Wine pairing

Try a lightly oaked Chardonnay from Alto Adige. If you must drink red go with a Alto Adige Pinot Nero.

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To be happy I need a generous daily dose of straight up greens, relatively unaltered and preferably raw. Here’s what it looked like today.

Kale and wakame salad.


  • 1 bunch kale, chopped
  • 20 gr wakame seaweed, rehydrated and drained well
  • 3 scallions, sliced thinly
  • 30 ml raw tahini
  • 30 ml toasted sesame oil
  • 30 ml wheat free tamari
  • 45 ml rice wine vinegar
  • 60 ml water
  • 15 ml sriracha hot sauce
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 3 cm piece of fresh ginger
  • 45 ml sesame seed

Clean and chop kale. Rehydrate wakame in plenty of warm water until tender. Drain well. Thinly slice scallions. Combine these 3 ingredients in a large salad bowl.

Put tahini, sesame oil, tamari, rice wine vinegar, water, sriracha, garlic and ginger in a blender and process until creamy and smooth. Pour the dressing on the salad, adjust seasoning to taste and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Let sit for an hour for flavours to combine.

Unlike many other salads, this one keeps well in the fridge overnight.

serves 6

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Seriously. I could eat this every day. It’s all my mom’s fault really… She’s transmitted her addiction on to us. We’re now contaminating the 3rd generation.

Orange zebra tomato sandwich with avocado and red curly lettuce.

No recipe necessary. Ingredients are super basic but must be the best and freshest you can get your hands on. Good rustic bread, toasted. Juicy and tangy homegrown tomatoes. Curly leaf or other crunchy, preferably homegrown lettuce. Homemade vegan mayo. Sometimes avocado or zucchini bacon. That. Is. It. Summer!

P.S. my #2 summer food is Vietnamese summer rolls and that addiction is almost as bad, at times even surfacing in the middle of winter…

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I’m not a big fan of store-bought vege burgers. I find they have no taste and the list of ingredients frightens me. When I feel like digging my fork into something “meaty” I make my own variation.

Tofu burger with roasted garlic and mushrooms, shallots-Jerez jus, sautéed spinach and oven fries.

This is my recipe for vege burgers. For approx the same price of a box of boring store-bought stuff you’ll get something homemade and toothsome.


  • 454 gm (16 oz) extra firm tofu, mashed
  • 120 ml (1/2 cup) vital wheat gluten flour
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 240 ml (1 cup) mushrooms, sliced
  • 6 cloves garlic, minced
  • 30 ml (2 tbsp) chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, minced
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) smoked Spanish paprika
  • 5 ml (1 tsp) freshly grated nutmeg
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) fresh rosemary, minced
  • 120 ml (1/2 cup) Jerez wine
  • sea salt to taste

Heat a sauteing pan on medium-high heat, spray with oil, add onions, garlic and mushrooms and cook until brown. Deglaze the pan with Jerez. Remove from heat and cool.

In a mixing bowl, combined above mixture with tofu, vital wheat gluten flour, chipotle peppers, paprika, nutmeg, rosemary and salt. Mix by hand until all ingredients are combined. Cover and refrigerate for a few hours or overnight.

Heat oven to 200°C (400°F). Form 8 patties with the tofu mixture. Put on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper and bake for 40 minutes turning once.

Serves 8

Tofu burgers just out of the oven

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Here’s a simple spring salad which I quickly put together when I got back from the market this weekend. The radish sprouts and arugula flowers added some colour and a nice kick to the mild spinach.


  • 150 gr (5.5 oz) Baby spinach
  • 50 gr (1.75 oz) Sunflower sprouts
  • 50 gr (1.75 oz) Japanese purple radish sprouts
  • 25 gr (0.88 oz) Arugula flowers
  • 8 Fingerling potatoes, cut in half and boiled
  • 2 French shallots, thinly sliced
  • 60 ml (4 tbsp) Capers
  • 20 Pecans halves, lightly roasted
  • Maldon salt to taste

For the dressing:

  • 60 ml (1/4 cup) Extra virgin olive oil
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) Jerez vinegar
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) Dijon mustard
  • 1 garlic clove, crushed

To make dressing combine all ingredients in a bolw and wisk until smooth.

Assemble greens on individual plates. Arrange potatoes around it, top with pecans, shallots, capers, add Maldon salt to taste. Add dressing and serve right away.

Serves 4

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Last weekend we had a potluck dinner party. Most of guests weren’t vegetarian but as it was in celebration of my birthday and I’m blessed with the most awesome friends ever, they all made killer vegan dishes.

I made tofu saté and spicy peanut sauce because it’s a good finger food that relatively easy on non-vegetarians.

Saté tofu & spicy peanut sauce

Here’s my absolute favourite saté recipe. The richness of the marinade really transforms the tofu into something flavourful and delicious.


2 blocks of firm tofu


250 ml (1 cup) thick coconut milk
30 ml (2 tbsp) sesame oil
60 ml  (1/4 cup) kecap manis sweet soy sauce
15 ml (1 tbsp) sambal chili sauce
115 ml (1/2 cup) ginger, chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
15 ml (1 tbsp) fresh lemon grass
15 ml (1 tbsp) curry powder
5 ml (1 tsp) ground coriander
5 ml (1 tsp) ground cummin
juice of half a lime


250 ml (1 cup) coconut milk
15 ml (1 tbsp) creamy peanut butter
10 ml (2 tsp) sugar
15 ml (1 tbsp) red curry paste
5 ml (1 tsp) lemon juice
pinch of salt


Place all the marinade ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth.

Cut tofu blocks lengthwise into 6 slices each. Set aside in a container with a tight-fitting lid.

Pour the marinade over the tofu, cover, refrigerate overnight and up to 2 days, turning 2 or 3 times.

Preheat the grill to medium hot. Skewer the tofu onto wooden sticks and grill the satés for 8-10 minutes or until they are brown, basting with the remaining marinade and turning 2 or 3 times during the cooking period.

To make the sauce, combine all the ingredients into a small saucepan and gently simmer for a few minutes until thick.

Serve warm.

fresh rolls
aromatic salad
avocado salad
quinoa salad
beet & apple salad
seaweed salad
citrus “ribs”

Here’s some of the other dishes we had on the table. There was so much food we hardly made a dent in it. We also had loads of wine and saké but I didn’t document, I was too busy eating and drinking…

Thanks again for an awesome night.

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This roasted vegetable tian makes a nice appetizer or side. No recipe. I roasted all the vegetables individually and then assembled the structure. From the bottom up: roasted eggplant, fired roasted red peppers, sautéed mushrooms deglazed  with Amontillado Jerez, roasted zucchini, roasted cherry tomatoes.

The sauce in a simple purée of fresh basil leaves, olive oil and a little lemon juice. Garnished with organic sun-dried Peruvian olives which are the best cured olives I’ve ever tasted.

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For years I stayed well clear of gnocchi. The few times I had eaten them I found they were heavy, doughy and generally unappetizing. Then one night some time ago while at Hearth I was present with a small plate of them by the chef. The guy was standing right there waiting for comeback so I ate one, and to my amazement it was fantastic. As far as anything I remembered gnocchi to be, these tiny little things were so light and tender and just melted in my mouth. Delicious.

So after researching the gnocchi thing and asking cooks for tips and tricks, I decided to experiment a little.

My first attempt here, were served with a simple roasted tomato sauce.

For my second run it was with a shiitake, sage & Jerez emulsion sauce. Less photogenic but a more interesting combination of flavours.

Over all, I’m still unimpressed with the results. The texture was OK but not as tender and light as I want them to be. On their own they tasted a little of raw flour… So I guess I need to keep tweaking. Or maybe I’ve set the bar too high and gnocchi are only good at Hearth after all.


A good pairing with the shiitake, sage & Jerez sauce,  is a wine that will complement the earthy and smoky flavour of the dish. A Valpolicella Classico Superiore or a good Chianti Classico would do if you have loads of money to through at it or in the $20 – $25 range you’ll do well with a Barbaresco or a Barbera d’Asti.

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Here’s the last bit of the Japanese dinner. Look at the previous 3 posts for the entire menu.

Robata Yaki is grilled food, this time okra, asparagus and scallions. It could not be easier. Just brush veges with a little oil and grill on the BBQ or in the oven. You can baste the food with the yaki sauce or simply serve with a little sea salt.

I forgot to shoot of the asparagus, sorry!

Yaki sauce

  • 125 ml (1/2 cup) sake
  • 175 ml (3/4 cup) mirin
  • 30 ml (2 tbsp) sugar
  • 175 ml (3/4 cup) Japanese soy sauce

In a large pot, bring the sake and mirin to a boil. Add the sugar and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Reduce heat, add soy sauce and simmer for approximately 30 minutes until the sauce is thick and glossy.

Maitake, bunashimeji and shiitake mushrooms baked en papillote with sesame oil, sake and garlic.

Cultivated Japanese mushrooms are not quite as fragrant as wild mushrooms but they’re now easy to come by. Hokto Kinoko, a Japanese producer, opened a mushroom “farm” in the USA in 2009. Their organic mushrooms are cultivated on a substrate made of non-genetically-modified ground corn cobs and rice bran, packaging is kept to a minimum and they’re relatively cheap at $2-3 per 3.5 oz package.

Mushroom papillote before and after baking.

This dish is usually made with butter which I have replaced here with dark sesame oil.


  • 100 gr (3.5 oz) bunapi shimeji (white beech mushrooms)
  • 100 gr (3.5 oz) buna shimeji (brown beech mushrooms)
  • 100 gr (3.5 oz) maitake mushrooms (hen of the woods)
  • 100 gr (3.5 oz) shiitake mushrooms
  • 2 cloves of cloves garlic, minced
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) dark sesame oil
  • 45 ml (3 tbsp) saké
  • 2 ml (1/2 tsp) smoked sea salt
  • 1 lemon cut into wedges


Separate shimeji and maitake into small clumps, slice the shiitake. Assemble the mushrooms on a large piece of parchment kitchen paper or foil, add garlic, sesame oil, sake and sea salt. Cover with an other piece of parchment paper or foil and seal well. Bake at 175C (350F) for 30 minutes. Open the papillote carefully, transfer its content to a serving plate and garnish with lemon wedges.

Now pour yourself an other glass of saké and enjoy!

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Continuing with Saturday’s Japanese dinner, here are a couple more recipes.

Cha soba noodles with traditional garnishes

Cha soba is green tea flavoured soba. Here it’s served cold with various garnishes and dipping sauce.


  • 240 gr (half pound) dry green tea soba noodles
  • 5 ml (1 tsp) sesame oil
  • 1 sheet nori, toasted and cut into match sticks
  • 2 scallions, finely chopped
  • 2 cm (1″) piece of ginger, grated
  • wasabi paste

Dipping sauce

  • 350 ml (1½ cups) water
  • 75 ml (1/3 cup) Japanese soy sauce
  • 75 ml (1/3 cup) mirin
  • 2 ml (½ tsp) sugar


Cook noodles in boiling water for 3-4 minutes until done but still firm. Carefull not to over cook them. Drain, rinse under cold water and drain well. Transfer to a bowl, toss with sesame oil and seeds.

In the oven or better, over an open flame, toast nori sheet then use scissors to cut into match sticks.

Combine all sauce ingredients in a saucepan and simmer for 5 minutes. Cool.

Arrange noodles on 4 plates, sprinkle with nori. Serve with individual bowls of dipping sauce. Present green onion, ginger and wasabi paste separately so people can garnish as they like.

Serves 4

Nasu dengaku

(grilled eggplant with miso glaze)

This is classic Izakaya fare. If you can’t find Japanese eggplants use any other young and small eggplants.

For grilled eggplant

  • 4 small Japanese eggplants, cut in half lengthwise
  • vegetable oil for brushing
  • sesame seeds

For glaze

  • 125 ml (1/2 cup) dashi
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) sugar
  • 15 ml (1 tbsp) mirin
  • 60 ml (1/4  cup) white miso
  • 10 ml (2 tsp) corn starch
  • yuzu kosho pepper to taste (optional)

Start by making the glaze. Combine dashi, sugar, mirin, miso and corn starch together. Simmer until the sauce thickens. Remove from heat and whisk in yuzu.

Cut eggplants in half lengthwise and score the flesh to grab the sauce. Brush with oil and grill on a BBQ or under a broiler until the tops are a nice brown and the eggplant is cooked but still quite firm.

Cover the cut side with the glaze, sprinkle with sesame seeds and put under the broiler until caramelized (watch it, this happens very fast and you don’t want to burn them).

Serves 4


This glaze is quite delicious on very fresh grilled tofu (the stuff you buy from vendor in Chinatown not the bricks of rubber you find at the grocer).

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For this easy last minute raw recipe, use a mandoline to slice 2 large summer squashes into thin ribbons. Dress with olive oil, minced garlic and salt. Let rest for 1-2 hours.

For the sauce, cut 350 ml (1 1/2 cups) of cherry tomatoes length wise. Toss with olive oil, minced garlic, lots of fresh basil, salt and pepper to taste.

To serve, drain the squash and separate between 2 plates. Cover with the sauce.

Serves 2

If you have 2-3 hours more, add coarsely chopped black olives and some crushed chili pepper to the tomato mixture and dehydrating for 2-3 hours until the tomatoes soften. This greatly improves the taste and texture of the sauce.

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Yet an other variation on vegan “egg Florentine” this time with slices of marinated pan fried tofu and sauté mushrooms and potatoes.

The tofu was marinated one hour in a mixture of olive oil, lemon juice, turmeric and nutmeg and the sauce is my regular vegan hollandaise sauce.

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Chestnut & Porcini medaglioni with a porcini broth & olive oil emulsion sauce and crispy sage leaves.

I took a shortcut here and simply put the stuffing between ready made wonton wrappers. The medaglioni were assembled in minutes. While they were cooking, I fried the sage in good olive oil which I then used to make the super simple sauce with. Dinner was on the table in a flash.

Wine pairing suggestions:

Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC
San Colombano al Lambro DOC
Valtellina Rosso DOC
Sangiovese di Romagna DOC

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Not much of a recipe needed here, just shredded cabbage, raw vegan mayo and a sprinkle of caraway seeds.

But this home made and delicious raw vegan mayo really makes it. I had been experimenting worth all sorts of variations found on the internet and none made me happy. I wan going crazy looking for the right emulsifier. Lecithin, taste gross. Agar agar, wrong texture. Extra mustard was overpowering and unstable. I was loosing hope for decent mayo then it dawned on me: raw cashes. THE perfect emulsifier for this raw vegan version had been hiding in plain sight all along.

So please, do try to make you own mayo at least once. It’s so fast and easy you probably will never want the store bought stuff again.

Raw Vegan Mayo

125 ml (1/2 cup) raw cashews soaked over night
15 ml (1 tbsp) dijon mustard
1 clove garlic
15 ml (1 tbsp) lemon juice
250 ml (1 cup) extra virgen oil (I use 1/3 olive, 2/3 canola)
salt to taste

Put cashews, mustard, garlic and 50 ml oil in the blender and process until very smooth and creamy, cleaning the sides of the bowl down as needed.

While the blender is turning, add the remaining oil slowly in a thin and even stream. When all oil is added, add lemon juice and salt to taste. Refrigerate 2 hrs before using. Will keep one week in the fridge in an air tight container.

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An othe “classic” meat and potatoes menu to warm you up during this winter which just won’t quit.

Chanterelles escalope, asparagus with hollandaise sauce  and gratin dauphinois.

Vegan Hollandaise sauce

makes 250 ml

175 ml (3/4 cup) unflavored soy milk or other non-dairy milk
60 ml (2 tbs) warm melted Earth Balance or olive oil
30 ml (1 tbs) cornstarch
30 ml (1 tbs)  fresh lemon juice
zest of half a lemon
salt to taste
pinch of tumeric (for colour)

In a saucepan mix together the soy milk, the cornstarch and tumeric, and whisk together well. Stir constantly over medium high heat until thick and translucent.

Scrape the yellow cornstarch mixture into the blender container containing the lemon juice and zest and salt. Blend well, adding the melted Earth Balance slowly through the hole in the lid while the machine is running.  Blend until the mixture is pale yellow, homogeneous and emulsified. Serve immediately.

Makes a really awesome tofu florentine too.

Wine pairing suggestions:

A white from the Savoie region or a light, fruity and earthy red from Beaujolais such as a Brouilly, Fleury or Saint-Amour.

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I’ve been craving seaweed. I think that’s my body demanding a boost of minerals, so here it is.


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