Dear Santa

Dear Santa,

Will you please bring me this gorgeous thing here:

iittala Sarpaneva cast iron pot

I certainly don’t need it but I think my life would be much happier with a gorgeous Scandinavian cast iron pots in it. And while you’re out prowling through kitchen stores, I’d also love a couple of these cute puppies:

Pho bowl set by Omid Sadri

And as always, I’d be perfectly happy to get ride of furniture to accomodate more books such as these:

Diccionario Botánico Para Cocineros by Andoni Luis Aduriz
Bestiarium Gastronomicae by Andoni Luis Aduriz
A Day at El Bulli by Ferran Adrià
Natura by Ferran Adrià
Bras : Laguiole, Aubrac, France by Michel Bras
Eating Animals by Jonathan Safran Foer
And pretty much anything by Michael Pollan.

I promise to have cookies out for you.

PS  Oh, and I could really use a decent SLR digital camera like say the Canon EOS Rebel XSi so that I may stop subjecting my readers to crappy cell phone photos…

Chaussons aux pommes

A fast and easy desert for lazy bakers.

Lazy chausson aux pommes.

Peel and core the apple. I use Egremont Russet cause they’re my favourite. Set on a square of store-bought vegan puff pastry. Fill the cavity with chopped pecans and maple syrup. Add a pinch of cinnamon. Seal the corners of the puff pastry together over the apple. Repeat several time as everyone will want one. Set in a baking dish and bake at 200°C (400°F) for 30 minutes.

Decadent Autumn Terrine

As with most pâté, this stuff is hight in fat and at its best when eaten with some very good bread. A little grain mustard or a bit of onion compote tops it off nicely.

The preparation is a bit long when you take into account the confit but don’t skip that step, it brings this rather simple vegetable spread to an other level.

Decadent Autumn Terrine

100 gr (3,5 oz) roasted chestnuts
2 medium parsnip, thickly sliced across
1 medium parsnip, peeled and thinly sliced length wise
500 ml (2 cups) fresh chanterelles, cleaned and coarsely chopped
1 French shalot, minced
2 cloves of garlic
2 cups of oil (I used a mixture of olive and canola)
30 ml (2 tbs) black truffle oil
100 ml (1/2 cup) dry Amontillado Jerez
5 ml (1tsp) sweet smoked Spanish paprika
5 ml (1tsp) fresh sage, chopped
5 ml (1tsp) fresh thyme, chopped
smoked sea salt to taste
black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 107°C (225°F). In a covered ceramic cocotte, arrange the thin, long parsnip slices in a single layer, add the thicker slices over top. Pour the mixed oils over the parsnip to cover and place the confit in the oven. Cook slowly at a very slow simmer — just an occasional bubble — until the parsnip is tender but not browned, 2-3 hours. Remove from the oven and cool. Reserve.  Alternatively, you could do this step in a slow cook set on the very lowest heat for 3-4 hours.

In a sauteing pan, cook the shalot and garlic on medium heat for a minute, add the chanterelles and cook untill done. Add Xeres, stir well and cook until all liquid is evaporated.

Line a small rectangular dish (mine is 6×13x5 cm) with parchment paper cut to size. Cover the bottom and sides with a single layer of thin parsnip confit slices. Be careful while handling them as they’ll be super fragile.

In a food processor put the chestnuts, remaining parsnip confit, chanterelle mixture, paprika, sage, thyme, salt and pepper and just enough of the confit oil for the blades to turn and process until you have a thick paste. Transfer this mixture to the lined dish and refrigerate overnight to allow flavours to combine well. The terrine will set as it cools.

terrine on baguette with onion compote

Dr Cow cheese tasting

I use to really love cheese. I’m talking about seasonal, unpasteurized, ripe and pungent, 50%+ milk fat, eat with a spoon, AOC cheese not the melted plastic gunk standard on slices and nachos. I’ve tried pretty much every vegan imitation out there and they all sucked. At least that’s what I thought until I tasted  Dr Cow raw organic nut cheeses about a year ago and became an instant fan.

Their cheeses are aged in a similar way as real cheese and made with nothing but nuts, water, probiotics and salt.  It’s unctuous and buttery tasting with a nice acidity reminiscent of a young chèvre and when it ages it acquires a bit of sharpness. Like all artisan cheese it is produced in small quantity therefore a bit pricey and getting your hands on it can be quite tricky even here in Brooklyn where it is made.

A sampling of Dr Cow nut cheeses

In the same order as the above photo:

Aged Macadamia
$12  /  73 gr
Nice acidity, mildly tannic, macadamia flavour is very present, mild, long after taste. Thicker almost sticky mouth feel. Texture is like a softer hard cheese, a little grainy.

Aged Cashew &Brazil nuts
$8.50  / 70 gr

Lower acidity, mildly tannin, stronger nut flavours and less cheesy then others. Very (too) young tasting. Short after taste. Texture is rich and slightly grainy.

Aged Cashew & hemp seeds
$8.50 /  70 gr

Nice acidity, mild (I was looking forward to the advertised sharpness but none here today), creamy with mild bitterness from hemp seeds. Mid length after taste.

Aged Cashew & herbs
$8.50 / 70 gr
as above with a strong herb taste, oregano dominates. would be nice on pizza or in a Greek salad.

Aged Cashew
$8.50 / 70 g

Nice acidity, mild and rounder nut taste, mid length aftertaste. Nice body. Firm but creamy texture.

I’ve had this particular nut cheese several times before and I prefer it much older when it is firmer and the lactic taste is better developed and it acquires a nice sharpness.

Today all these cheeses were very mild (the flavours of the sourdough bread overpowered them at times) and appeared to be a little too young compare to other batches I’ve add.  I prefer them older and would give them at least 3-4 weeks more aging time.

Roasted heirloom tomato appetizer

This is from a few weeks ago when the last tomatoes were harvested.

Roasted heirloom tomato

Not much of a recipe. Just a thick slice of perfectly ripe tomato lightly seasoned with minced garlic, salt and pepper and oven roasted for about 20 minutes. Plated with oven dried black olives, a drizzle of Arbequina olive oil and some chopped oregano.

Osso Bucco & Risotto alla Milanese. Vegan!

While not particularly avant-garde, I don’t know anybody who’ll turn down Osso Bucco when the weather turns cold and rainy. This stuff will ward off even the worst fall blues, guaranteed.

For osso bucco

6 large king oyster mushrooms
all-purpose flour for dredging the mushrooms
90 ml (6 tbs) olive oil
350 ml (1 1/2 cups) dry white wine
250 ml (1 cups) onion, finely chopped
175 ml (3/4 cup) carrots, finely chopped
175 ml (3/4 cup) celery, finely chopped
10 ml (2 tspn) garlic, minced
750 ml (3 cups) homemade vegetable broth (or best store-bought)
350 ml (1 1/2 cups) tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped

1 bouquet garni of 6 fresh parsley sprigs, 4 fresh thyme sprigs, 1 bay leaf, tied together with kitchen string

5 ml (1 tspn) sweet smoked spanish paprika

salt and freshly grounded black pepper to taste

For gremolata

125 ml (1/2 cup) fresh parsley, minced
30 ml (2 tbs) lemon zest
15 ml (1 tbs) garlic, minced

For risotto

350 ml (1 1/2 cups) short grain rice preferably Carnaroli or Vialone Nano
750 ml (3 cups) homemade vegetable stock (or best store-bought, there may be some left over)
115 ml (1/2 cup) dry white wine
1 small onion, finely chopped
15 ml (1 tbs) olive oil
vegan cooking cream such as Belsoy
1 generous pinch of saffron threads
freshly ground nutmeg
salt and freshly ground black pepper

To make

A giant king oyster mushroom

Cut the king oyster mushrooms into 3cm thick slices across the stem, leave the head whole. Marinade 15 minutes in 60 ml (4 tbs) olive oil, 15 ml (1 tbs) minced garlic, paprika, salt and pepper. Remove mushrooms from marinade and dredge in the flour, shaking off the excess. In a heavy skillet heat 15 ml (1 tbs) oil over moderately high heat and brown the mushrooms in batches, adding oil as necessary and transferring the browned mushrooms to a platter.

Browned mushroom shanks

Preheat oven to 175°C  (350°F)

In a medium-sized braiser cook the onion, carrots, celery and garlic in the remaining oil on moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened. Add the mushrooms and the wine and boil until the liquid is reduced to about 115 ml (1/2 cup). Add enough of the broth to almost cover. Spread the tomatoes over the shanks, add the bouquet garni, salt and pepper to taste. Braise the mixture, covered, in the middle of the oven for 1 hour.

Osso Bucco nearly ready

Strain the pan juices into a saucepan, pressing hard on the solids, and skim the fat. Boil the juices for 15 minutes, or until they are reduced to about 3 cups.

While the osso bucco is cooking make the gremolata. In a bowl stir together the parsley, the zest, and the garlic. Reserve.

30 minutes before serving, make the risotto.

Bring stock to a simmer in a small saucepan and keep hot.

In a medium size heavy saucepan, cook onion in the oil over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and translucent, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the saffron and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add rice and cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add white wine and simmer until evaporated. Raised heat to medium high and add hot stock gradually in small amounts while stirring gently, almost constantly. After approximately 17 minutes, when rice is tender and creamy-looking but still al dente, take off the heat, add soy cream and stir well to make the texture as creamy and smooth as possible.

Cover to rest 2-3 minutes. Serve immediately after. Risotto does not wait very well at all.

To plate, make a little nest of rissotto in the center of the plate. Add stew over top and sprinkle with the gremolata.

I’ve been experimenting with vegan marrow bones to really round this off… I’ll keep you posted.

Wine

A traditional pairing would be a Barolo or Barbaresco but I’d try a southern Rhône, full-bodied, fruity and peppery with a smooth finish. Keep your eyes open for great value for the $ from Cairanne, Rasteau, Gigondas and Vacqueyras.

Salad with roasted baby beets and cashew cheese

sorry for the soft focus, my camera just doesn’t like food closeups.

Here’s a simple fall starter. Baby spinach tossed in a walnut oil, sherry vinegar dressing, topped with a little tower of roasted baby beet slices and tangy cashew cheese.

My cashew cheese recipe is here.

Pan-Seared Maitake steaks with Pumpkin Risotto

Pan-seared maitake steaks with pumpkin risotto and crispy sage

Last night our menu was:

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Tiny oven roasted beets on a nest of sautéed beet tops
with a hazelnut & orange dressing

Pan-seared maitake steaks with pumpkin risotto and crispy sage

Tensley Blanc 2007, Santa Barbara

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While this may look like zombie food it is in fact a maitake mushroom. They’re delicious and in season right now. Try them.

For risotto

• 300 ml (1 1/4 cups) peeled, seeded and diced fresh pumpkin
• 750 ml (3 cups) homemade vegetable stock (or best store-bought)
• 115 ml (1/2 cup) dry white wine
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 15 ml (1 tbs) olive oil
• 350 ml (1 1/2 cups) Arborio rice
• freshly ground nutmeg
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

For maitake steaks

• 2 or 3 medium clusters of maitake (aprox 750 gr)
• 45 ml (3 tbs) olive oil
• 30 ml (2 tbs) thinly sliced plus 6 whole leaves fresh sage

Make risotto:

Cook diced pumpkin in a medium saucepan covered with water until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and puré in blender. Reserve.

Bring stock to a simmer in a small saucepan and keep warm.

In a medium size heavy saucepan, cook onion in oil over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add rice and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add wine and simmer until evaporated. Add 1 cup simmering stock and cook at a strong simmer, stirring constantly, until stock is absorbed. Continue simmering, adding stock 1/2 cup at a time, stirring constantly and letting each addition be absorbed before adding the next, until rice is tender and creamy-looking but still al dente, about 20 minutes total. (There may be broth left over.)

Remove from heat and stir in pumpkin cream. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste. Cover to rest 5 minutes. Serve immediately after.

Prepare mushrooms:

Clean maitake mushrooms carefully and cut into 2.5 cm (1″) thick slices.

Heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the sage and fry until golden and crispy. Careful not to burn it, this only takes seconds. Remove sage from the skillet and drain on a paper towel. Keep the hot oil in the skillet.

Add the maitake to the skillet and sauté, turning once, until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Keep warm.

To serve:

Ladle risotto onto plates, top with maitake steak and crispy sage. Serve immediately, risotto doesn’t wait very well.

Wine:

Tensley Blanc – 2007

Country :	USA
Region :	California / Santa Barbara
Varietal :	Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Viognier
Price :	$25

A Rhône-style blend, fruity and aromatic with notes of ripe peach, green apple and tropical fruit. Hint of floral and mineral. Big, round, ripe and lush fall wine.

Winter vegetables stew with turmeric and raisins

Last night’s menu was:

Crostini of chestnut pâté with caramelised onions,
grape must reduction and a drop of truffle oil

Winter vegetables stew with turmeric & raisins
and a simple green salad.

Stew recipe

Ingredients

• 12 small cipollini onions, whole, peeled
• 4 medium parsnips
• 6 small white turnips
• 1 medium ratabaga
• 2 medium parsley roots
• 4 medium carrots
• 500 gr (1 lbs) fingerlings potatoes
• 5 large chard leaves
• 45 ml (3 tbs) olive oil
• 30 ml (2 tbs) flour
• 5 ml (1 tsp) turmeric powder
• 250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine
• 750 ml (3 cups) strong vegetable broth, mushroom and onion is ideal
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• (1/4 cup) large raisins
• 15 ml (1 tbs) each fresh thyme, sage, marjoram, chopped
• 45 ml (3 tbs) fresh parsley, chopped

Preparation

Preheat oven to 175C (350F)

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil and blanch the onions. Cool and peel the. Set aside.

Scrub all root vegetables clean, peel only those necessary and cut into chunky bite size pieces. Remove the ribs from the chard and cut into 1 cm (1/2 “) wide strips.

In a large cast iron pot, over medium high heat, warm the oil. Add all root vegetables and sauté 5 minutes. In a bowl mix the flour, salt, pepper, turmeric. Sprinkle the mixture over the vegetables. Cook, stirring regularly, until the flour begins to brown. Add the wine, stir and cook 2 minutes. Add broth, chard, onions, raisins and herbs, except parsley. Cover and bake in the oven until the vegetables are tender, about 45 mins.

Serve garnished with fresh parsley.

Wine

Geil muskateller trocken 2007

Country :	Germany
Region :	Rheingau / Rheinhessen
Varietal :	Muscat
Price :	$15

A light and crip wine with decent length. Very fruit forward with dominant notes of musky muscat grape of course, also with notes peach, citrus, floral, hint of honey and nutmeg. Slight minerality.

Eggplant and leek crumble

Eggplant & leak crumble

Last night we had a salad of wild roquette, sautéed Bosc pears and lightly candied pecans followed by an eggplant & leek crumble. Here’s a recipe for the crumble.

Ingredients

• 1 large eggplant cut into 2 cm (1″) cubes
• 2 medium leeks, white part only, cleaned and sliced
• 2 cloves of garlic, chopped
• 90 ml (6 tbs) olive oil
• 1 block firm silken tofu
• 15 ml lemon juice (1 tbs)
• zest of 1/2 lemon
• freshly grated nutmeg
• salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 cup bread crumbs
• 45 ml (3 tbs) fresh parsley, chopped

To prepare

In a blender, put the tofu, 30 ml oil (2 tbs), lemon juice and zest and process until very smooth. Add water if needed to make a very thick cream. Season with nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Keep aside.

In a large skillet, over medium high heat, warm 30 ml (2 tbs) oil until very hot, add half the garlic sauté one minute and add leeks, sauté until soft. Add eggplant, sauté until soft. Remove from heat.

Oil a baking dish. Put the eggplant & leek mix at the bottom. Add the tofu cream over top. Bake for about 20 minutes in a 175C (350F) oven.

Mix bread crumbs with remaining 30 ml oil (2 tbs) oil. Season with fresh parley, remaining garlic, salt and pepper. Sprinkle over the crumble. Return to oven and broil for about 3 minutes, or just until breadcrumbs are golden and crusty. Serve.

Wine

Bott Geyl Les Pinots d’Alsace Métiss 2006

Country :	France
Region :	Alsace
Appellation :	Alsace
Producer :	Jean-Christophe Bott

Very Alsatian in character, it’s a beautiful rich golden colour. Overall crisp and fresh and dangerously easy to drink. Dominant notes are pear, apricot, citrus, with a hint of floral, honey and almond. Nice minerality, dept and ripeness. Kind of a steal at $16.